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How to Pick Hiking Boots? | Choose The Right Pair

Last updated on April 13th, 2021 at 10:56 pm

Hiking is a wonderfully simple concept to grasp, put one foot in front of the other surrounded by nature and you are off to the races. Starting out, I stumbled more in how best to prepare myself. What I learned is that protection for your feet are the very first thing to consider. How to choose hiking boots may seem complicated but I’m here to help break down the options for you.

Hiking boots should be selected to match the terrain they will be used in. Technical features such as waterproofing, weight, and upper material can also be used to narrow your search for hiking boots. 

Embracing the outdoors awaits all men and women and being prepared helps make fantastic memories happen. Picking the boots that keep your feet comfortable, dry, and happy is step one on your amazing adventure!

Matching Hiking Footwear with Type of Hiking

From short, forestry walks in nice weather to long, icy mountaineering ascents, each escapade is catered for here.  What to look for and how to pick your hiking boots is dependent on the activity level is what I’ll focus on.

Trail Running Shoes – The Speedster

Trail running shoes are the rugged, durable, and supportive older cousin of your road running shoes. Lighter than hiking boots and more immediately comfortable, they are designed to keep traction on wilderness runs or fast-paced hikes. A quirky debate on boots vs trail runners continues to rage but rest easy. If you’re new to hiking or hiking in colder conditions and want more stability, mid-weight boots might suit better and ward off any weak ankle concerns. If you hike quickly in warm weather and are a “sweater” like me, a breathable trail running shoe could do the job!

Speed Hiking Shoes (lightweight hikers) – The Peregrine Falcon

Speed hiking or fastpacking is the fun middle ground where you’re too quick to be walking but not quite running pace. You can read more about Speed Hiking in our post, Speed Hiking vs Trail Running | Major Comparisons

Believe it or not, a shoe exists just for the speed hiking niche. The objective in these shoes is to allow the user to travel light and fast in order to cover more distance in a day.

For hikers wanting to be quick and agile across technical terrain, a speed hiking shoe or a light trail running shoe is often the weapon of choice. If this sounds like you, you might want to take a look at our post focusing specifically on The Best Speed Hiking Shoes for Any Terrain

Mid-Weight Hiking Boots – The Reliable O.G.

This is the boot you’re thinking of when you picture hiking boots. The mid-weight boot has a high cuff, extra ankle and foot support, usually waterproof, and a leather or synthetic exterior.

These are my go-to boot when I expect changeable underfoot conditions and weather. My rickety ankles are always thankful for the protective support. They take a few days to break in but give me a lot of confidence for single or multi-day outdoor exploits. When you are thinking how to select hiking boots, you won’t go wrong with a mid-weight hiking boot.

Heavier Hiking Boots (For Backpacking) – The General

Heavier boots are created for longer backpacking adventures. A stiffer sole, extra grip, and sturdiness feature in the design to help you carry burlier loads in mixed conditions and landscapes.

They are unquestionably heavier and should be bought for bigger escapades. You can expect them to feel a little more uncomfortable than their previous counterparts. Heavier boots are like the friend who brings snacks everywhere; sometimes it seems a little bit excessive but when you needed it on a long day, you were so glad you had them.

Mountaineering Boots – The Fearless Explorer

You will have noticed the growing intensity of the descriptions and boots through this list. That crescendo peaks with the mountaineering boot. This boot covers everything from winter hikes and ice climbing, all the way to the summit of Mount Everest. They have a heavier and stiffer sole with thicker insulation to protect against the harshest elements. They are also designed to fit crampons for the icy adventurer.

Mountaineering boots carry a lofty price-tag so they are not for the feint of heart. I can only suggest building up to the type of expedition that might require this boot, but if you are already a mountaineering type this boot is likely in your future at some point.

Approach Shoes – The Chameleon

Finally, we arrive to the approach shoe which couldn’t be forgotten from a good list. Approach shoes are a combination of hiking and climbing shoes. They take the appearance of a trail runner and are comfortable for hiking, but a special rubber sole gives more traction on rock surfaces for scrambling or easier climbing.

Approach shoes were originally designed for hiking into rock climbing routes and are incredibly fit for purpose. They have been a staple in the climbing domain for years but have grown in popularity among hikers. Their versatility gives them an edge for climbing and rocky terrain, but the rubber sole for those pursuits wears out quickly. When I’m hiking, I occasionally like to pretend I’m Alex Honnold on a cliff face, so for my delusion, these shoes are wonderfully enabling.

The Basics of Hiking Footwear Construction

Here is a useful comparison for you: Your hiking footwear is to casual footwear like your smartphone is to a landline. That is to say, a lot of technology and thought has been put into the design of hiking boots, and they are not the same as standard footwear.

If you are going to pick hiking boots based on the technical specs, and design features, you will need to have a good understanding of the main elements of the boots. Below I go through some of these elements in a bit more detail, starting at the ground of the boot and working up to the cuff.

Boot Treads / Outsole

Quite simply, the treads and outsole are the part of your boot that makes contact with the ground.

The outsole (or tread) is made of rubber with varying densities depending on the boot. You will find crevasses in the rubber base known as lugs or cleats which enable you to gain better traction. Often, the heel treads are specifically designed to help you stop if you’re at risk of a downhill slip.

I’d be looking for good tread depth in any pair of hiking boots I purchase. The base of your boot should also be the appropriate firmness for the type of terrain you will be hiking.

Midsole Cushioning

Next layer up is the midsole cushioning; the buffer and shock absorber between you and the harder outsole. Here is where the stiffness of the boot is determined. They are almost always made from either EVA (ethylene vinyl acetate) or PU (Polyurethane).

EVA is a lighter, softer cushion and less pricey than its counterpart. This is the common material found in running and casual shoes. The less dense the EVA, the softer it all feels, and will most likely require little to no break in time.

PU is used in heavier hiking and mountaineering boots for its longevity, support, and durability. It does add more weight, costs more, and needs more time to break in so keep that in mind. I tend to favor PU midsoles as I like to get a long time out of my boots and once the boots are broken in I don’t tend to get blisters.

Insole Support

The typical insole for a boot is made from EVA for another layer of cushioning. However, EVA insoles are not all that supportive for your arches. If this is a concern you have, getting a supportive insert might be something to consider. Adding a quality insert can increase foot comfort, and counter the less supportive EVA insoles that come with most hiking boots.

Upper Boot Covering

The upper boot covering is the part looking back at you when you stare at your feet. This covering is pretty imperative for comfort and practicality so I’ll give a little more detail here. Ethics around leather vs synthetic boots and waterproof vs breathable boots, tend to arise at this point.

For simplicity, I suggest sticking to a boot covering that best serves the activity you want to do.

I’ll comment on the waterproofing in the next section but for the boot make-up, there are a few types to consider.

Full leather boots are usually in the mid, heavy, and mountaineering categories because of their durability and reduced abrasion. These boots are built for sturdiness and the rugged terrain for longer trips so they might be heavier. You can expect a high degree of waterproofing which can mean less breathability. I am a fan because, once you treat them right, they are teak-tough, long-lasting, and always worth the money.

Split leather is a thinner and softer skin usually combined with nylon or mixed fabric. It is less attractive to the eye but creates a lighter, more breathable boot. What you will save in money, you lose in durability, water resistance, and abrasion protection since this material comes from the underside of the hide with less exposure to the elements.

Nubuck is leather that has been buffed and treated to have a smooth finish. The buffing process creates the Nubuck leather which is water resistant and durable. These do show scrapes and scratches easier and can be affected by liquid damage but are a great alternative to full-leather boots.

Synthetic boots are a combination of polyester, nylon, and synthetic leather. This category is evolving rapidly with technology advancements. As advancements are made improvements are being made in the weight and cost category.

Additionally, animals aren’t used in the production of synthetic hiking boots, and they are often considered the most ethical hiking boot for this reason.  While they have not definitively surpassed leather boots, they will likely eventually do so soon.

Synthetic boots are lighter, cost less, and are faster to dry. But like the rest, there are some drawbacks to synthetic material. Synthetic boots have more pieces stitched together and the stitching deteriorates quicker than its rival. Similar to a chain, the more links in it, the weaker it becomes.

Synthetic boot technology will likely continue to improve over time.

Hiking Boot Lacing Style

Now, I know what you’re thinking, am I really going to this depth? Yes!

I gave this zero thought for over a decade and when I was shown the light, I felt foolish.

You have the criss-crossers, heel lockers, lattice methods, bow tiers, standard and, alternate straight lacers.

How you lace your boots changes the fit, reduces stress on your arches, and secures your ankles better. For now though, I’ll stick to three styles for the high cuff boot.

  • Overhand Knot – You likely learned this knot growing up and it is perfectly fine for tying your boots. Take your two laces, cross one over the other, loop underneath for the ‘X’ and pull out the slack. Finish with your bunny ears. Easy peasy!
  • Surgeons knot – A surgeons knot or double overhand are almost the exact same apart from the middle step. You cross one over the other, loop underneath and then loop underneath a second time for a wider looking X. This extra loop creates more friction for tightening the knot which can help keep your heel in place better. Finish with the bunny ears once more.
  • The Heel Locking Knot – Lace your boots as normal up to the last hooks. Rather than crossing over, put each lace vertically through the second last and last hooks on the side they are on. One at a time, cross each lace tucking them under the vertical lace on the opposite side. Finish the knot with a double overhand knot and bunny ears before.

Each of these knots should be tightened securely for a snug secure feel but please don’t cut off circulation to your foot. I have done this countless times and realized later that my toes were cold because the blood was struggling to get there.

As the final piece of putting your boots together, this could be easily overlooked but can make a great difference to your feet. Not all boots have the same lacing style, and it is something important to keep in mind when selecting your hiking boots

Waterproof vs Not Waterproof

As hiking has evolved over time, the general knowledge base expands and diversifies like any other area. A debate exists in the need for hiking boots to be waterproof or if a light, quick drying boot is just as good. Waterproof boots with a Gore-Tex, Outdry, WP or e-Vent tag can be less breathable and cause sweating whereas non-waterproof boots don’t put up enough resistance to any puddles or rain.

I could argue both sides with conviction and be somewhat right both times, but I won’t. Instead, I focus on the objective of my boot. Keep my foot protected please! Wet feet, either by sweating or water coming in will eventually cause blisters. A blister can be a trip ender.

If I know that the majority of my hikes are going to be in dry, warm conditions, I will opt for lighter, breathable footwear. If I know I’m going to encounter wet weather or muddy conditions, I’ll stick to the waterproof option and change up my socks. I would consider the latter option to be the opinion of the majority as it gives you more flexibility rather than being stuck with wet feet in light boots.

Comfort and Protection Go Hand in Hand

I know I said that I’m willing to sacrifice some comfort for the overall functionality of the boot. I would refine that position to apply mainly to the longer adventures. I prefer to have the right boots to keep me protected in the long run rather than feeling like I’m walking on clouds temporarily.

When deciding how to pick hiking boots, I would be very slow to sacrifice any comfort. There are enough options currently out there for you to have the comfort AND protection you are looking for.

Your feet deserve the comfort because they are at the coal face doing the work. I will almost always prioritize comfort and protection in equal measure.

Boots Should Help You Focus on Hiking

Finally, when considering how to choose hiking boots, don’t forget that these are the shoes for the dance and not the dance itself. All any good hiking boot wants is to keep you comfortable and safe on your adventures. While they do their job, you have the freedom to embrace the beauty of the nature around you! Happy trails!

Image Credit: Alan Levine |(https://www.flickr.com/photos/cogdog/) | CC0 1.0 Universal (CC0 1.0)
Public Domain Dedication–reduced file size 

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