Last updated on April 14th, 2021 at 05:24 pm
Scrambling is truly a unique activity. Scrambling bridges the gap between hiking and mountaineering, and as scrambling continues to gain popularity it is important to go over the different scrambling grades.
In this post we outline the way scrambles are graded in the US and the UK.
US and UK Scramble Grades
There are two main ways scrambles have been graded; the grading system in the United States and the grading system in the UK.
Grading Method in the USA
The method for grading in the USA relies heavily on the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS).
Walkers, hikers, and rock climbers use the YDS grading method to get a sense for what type of terrain they will come across on a trail. The grading system also provides a way for trail users to surmise what technical skills might be required on any given route.
RELATED: What is Scrambling Hiking – Rocky Hill Hikes
Scrambles in the US fall into grade 3 of the YDS, primarily. Some scrambles, however, are considered Grade 2 and Grade 4 routes. With this in mind, it should be noted that there are gray areas when it comes to rating routes.
Below we describe Grade 2, 3, and 4 of the YDS in a bit more detail.
Yosemite Decimal System Scrambling Grades
As mentioned above, in the US scrambles fall primarily within the 3rd grade of the YDS. However, because some scrambles may fall into either grade 2 or grade 4 of the YDS, we outline all of these below:
Grade 2 of the YDS
More advanced hiking, some scrambling; occasional use of hands is possible to likely. The trail may not be well defined, but not much danger is expected on the route. Hiking boots are highly recommended.
Grade 3 of the YDS
Most, or all of the trail, will be considered a full-on scramble. The use of hands will be necessary in order to advance. Hand holds will be required, but true climbing techniques that require belays and harnesses are, on most routes, unnecessary. Exposure to falls is increased. Falls on a Grade 3 might not be fatal, but could very easily be.
Rope may not be required for all routes but should be considered for difficult routes. Beginner scrambles should consider taking a scrambling course.
Grade 4 of the YDS
Technical climbing is required for grade 4 of the YDS. This will require the use of protective gear and climbing equipment. Belays, harnesses, and rope will be necessary to prevent falls on much of Grade 4 trails. Exposure is greatly increased. When falls occur on Grade 4 they are likely fatal when the improper gear is used.
As can be gathered from the descriptions above the trails and scrambles from one spot to another may vary widely in their exposure to falls and required technical abilities. For this reason it is very important that beginning scramblers do not take the activity lightly.
Grading Method in the U.K.
In the U.K., the grading methodology provides three distinct scramble grades.
Below we go into more details on each scrambling grade.
Grade 1
Akin to a difficult exposed hike. Will require hands for advancement. Route finding is not difficult on grade 1 scrambles. Grade 1 will almost certainly involve steep steps or hill, but the uses of rope are not expected for these scrambles.
Grade 2
For grade 2 scrambles the line is blurred between scramble and light rock climbing. Protective equipment and climbing equipment are often used starting on grade 2 scrambles. It is common for grade 2 scrambles to have at least a small section where a short climb be necessary. Many sources state that finding a route around the all-out climb is likely possible on grade 2 scrambles, but may require some route finding skills to do so.
Leaving the scramble, or route is much more difficult than grade 1 routes. This may require a route be completed after beginning in order to escape the routes.
Characterized by increased exposure to falls and the need for possible climbing equipment.
Grade 3
Don’t attempt grade 3 scrambles unless you are an experienced scrambler. Steeper grades are near certain on grade 3 scrambles. A rope will almost certainly be required for portions of the scramble, and escape from the route would be very difficult for many grade 3 scrambles.
Grade 4
Grade 4 scrambles are more akin to climbing than anything else. Only seasoned scramblers should take on grade 4 routes. This grade of scramble is characterized by steep grades that are highly exposed. Because of this falls without a rope on grade 4 scrambles will almost certainly be fatal.
Vegetation is likely limited, and rock climbing techniques will be required to advance. These routes require actual vertical rock climbing for portions. Having the ability to utilize mountaineering equipment in the form of ropes, belays, harnesses, etc. will be required for sections of the scramble.
This grade of scramble will have exposed portions that are very high, and escape from the route will be near impossible.
Why there are grades for scrambling
Scrambling grades exist for all of the obvious reasons; safety primarily. Being able to compare routes against each other is an added benefit as well. In fact, when the YDS was being developed grading routes against other rates was really the only way to judge their relative difficulty. This was subjective, and difficult to learn for novice hikers, scramblers and climbers.
Refining the Grading Systems
Through the 1950s the grading system of the YDS was further refined. The changes made in the 1950s provide the decimal divisions experienced in higher grades. Beginning in Grade 5 there are decimals added to provide additional detail on the difficulty of routes. The decimal portions of the YDS aren’t completely relevant for scramblers and hikers, however. The decimals of higher grades of the YDS does provide more advanced scramblers an idea of what that leap to full out climbing would look like.
The Yosemite Decimal System went through changes in the 1950s. These changes resulted in the system currently used. Some have proposed additional changes (source) to improve the grading system. Until then, at least there is something we can use as a relative basis for guided safety.
If you are truly scrambling it won’t be in a higher Grade of the YDS, where decimals come into play.
Safe Scrambling
Defined by more exposure scrambles are inherently more dangerous than hikes. Slips, trips, and falls are more likely as the terrain becomes increasingly difficult. As the hikes become scrambles these falls may become more serious, or even fatal. For these reasons, it is highly recommended to take some of the following safety precautions.
Begin with Experienced Scramblers
When possible hit the scrambles with more experienced scramblers. Ideally, those that have already taken on the route you’re planning to tackle. If someone in your group knows the route well you will know in advance whether additional equipment is required.
Hiking is best done with others, and scrambling is no different. There is power in numbers, and with the increased risk of scrambling don’t go it alone.
Take Scrambling Classes
Scrambling classes are offered by numerous mountaineering groups across the country. If you are going to be a beginning scrambler take some classes to learn the basics before taking a route.
Weather is Serious
With hiking you can work your way through a lot of weather conditions. With scrambling it is highly recommended to observe and obey the weather. Because many scrambling routes are more exposed, slipping on wet rock faces becomes more of a concern.
Taking on a Scramble
If you have experienced rocky terrain on your hikes you are heading in the right direction. Working with experienced scramblers, and plugging into a mountaineering community is the next step.
Being involved with a mountaineering group will help prepare you to more confidently take on scrambling.
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Image Credit: Joshua Tree National Park (https://www.flickr.com/photos/joshuatreenp/)Public Domain Mark 1.0